All of these photos have come from personal collections or museum websites. They are intended for informational purposes only.
All of these dresses date between the years 1860 and 1865, during the American Civil War. This was during the Early Victorian period, and this era marks the time when skirts were at their fullest. The Crinoline (or Hoop Skirt) was invented in 1846 in order to reduce the need for multiple heavy petticoats. By the late 1850s they were the height of fashion. The crinoline allowed women to wear bigger skirts, without weighing them down completely. However, they were not very practical garments, as they easily knocked things over while walking, got caught in doorways, and were easily upturned (by tripping, climbing in a carriage, wind) which exposed the wearer in an improper fashion.
By 1865, skirts started to move toward the back of the form, first by using an elliptical crinoline (oblong hoop skirt with more skirt to the back, and flat in the front) and then to an early bustle style. Many bustle dresses of the late 1860s were constructed by "re-making" a skirt that was meant to fit a crinoline. The dressmakers would shift the bulk of the material to the back in order to emphasize the rear. The bustle helped support the weight of the fabric.
Considering how many dresses of the early 1860s were re-made, it is wonderful to find examples that have been left intact. The dresses in these photos not only teach us about what people wore. They teach us about the textiles available, sewing techniques, The economic health of the country at that time, and even social norms for that particular culture.
Haha, well hopefully I'm not boring you all with this mini-lecture. I will be in Manassas until Monday, and I'll have lots of photos to share when I return!
Cristina
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